Back in October of 2017 I had the opportunity to travel to Israel for work purposes. I was a bit anxious about traveling to Israel, or really the Middle East in general. I had never been to either, and based on everything you hear on the news, it didn't come across as a very welcoming place to go. I traveled with an Ahmadi coworker of mine, who was born in Dubai and both his parents - like mine - were born in Pakistan. He had given me a heads up that we'd probably get "randomly selected" upon arrival and when we depart due to us being Pakistani. Sure enough, as we handed our U.S. passports to the customs officer they asked me what I was here for, if I had any family or friends in Israel. Then they asked me what my father‘s name was, and what my grandfather‘s name was. Since both have Muslim names, we were flagged and asked to proceed to the back for additional questions.
For the most part the wait time was mainly due to the number of others waiting to be called. At no point did I feel the security personnel acting like jerks or disrespectful. In the follow up questions they ask me the basics; company name, how long I was here for, what my role is and title, where I was born, and where my parents were born. Upon hearing that my parents were born in Pakistan, they asked if they still live there or not, and whether they are Pakistani passport holders. I said no and they live with me in California. I should probably note: Pakistan does not allow any Israeli passport holders allowed into the country (along with 11 other countries). They were just doing their jobs and doing their due diligence in making sure we weren't a threat. It took about two hours to get out of customs from when I deplaned.
I stayed in Tel-Aviv both trips. I had assumed the entire Middle East was going to be extremely overcrowded and packed with people. It was sort of the opposite. Tel-Aviv was very clean, sort of looked like any other large metropolis. The weather was just like California. October was a perfect time to visit. Both trips we stayed right along the beach, which was very nice as well and always had something going on (even well into the night). A good amount of people will have guns on them. In the office there were about five employees that always carry. I guess it’s sort of like Texas. Actually, maybe I wouldn't say "a good amount of people have guns," but don’t be surprised if you see someone with one. Thankfully all the street signs are in Hebrew, Arabic, and English, and most people speak English so you should be able to get by pretty easily.
FOOD: Tel-Aviv can be expensive when it comes to food, so be warned. But if you want great food go anywhere on Dizengoff st. I went to Goocha one of the nights, which is a delicious seafood spot. ACCOMMODATIONS: 1) The Renaissance in Tel Aviv is good. Breakfast is perfect. Make sure you get a newly renovated room. 2)Crowne Plaza is also good. Standard hotel right on the beach. Breakfast also good but like the Renaissance breakfast more. 3) Then there’s The Carlton. Very fancy, nice but I’m not a fan of fancy hotels. You end up having to pay for most of the nice amenities. Breakfast is amazing, but $20/person. THINGS TO DO: Be sure to visit Old Jaffa. The second oldest port in the world. It’s technically apart of Tel Aviv, but just punch in “Old Jaffa” and you’ll find the spot. Eat at Al Ashi Restaurant, Onza, Cafe Pua or Aladin. Good food. Aladin has a clear, rooftop view of Tel Aviv. The Clock Tower isn’t that large but right in the city center and next to Mahmudiyya mosque. From the clock tower walk up Mifrats Sholom Promenade to the top towards St. Peter’s Church. Nice promenade area where you can find street vendors. If you like fish, then eat at the Old Man by the Sea. And of course of course visit Jerusalem. About 30-45 minutes from Tel Aviv. Amazing history. Tel Aviv: 2 full days max. Enter Haifa:
First place I went to visit on the weekend was Haifa. Israel is probably the only Middle Eastern country that allows the Ahmadiyya Muslim Community (which I am apart of) to openly and freely practice their religion. I went to the Mahmood Masjid for Friday Prayers. From there I drove down to the Louis Promenade which gave a grand sweeping view of the city and harbor. Next was the Baha’i Gardens. Very very beautiful. Make sure to get there at noon so you can do the guided tour (free). Anytime before or after they only allow you to the viewing area on the top. We tried to visit both the Stella Maris Mortuary and Elijah’s Cave (more like a building to be honest), but it was closed by the time we got there. Instead we opted to have a late lunch/dinner at Ein El Wadi. Great traditional Lebanese food! There’s this cable car you can take from the top down to the beach. I didn’t do it myself but looked pretty cool.
If you have time, drive a bit north to Akko. It’s an old port town that was made back during the Ottoman Empire era. Its an UNESCO Site and looks amazing. Definitely on my list for next time! On the way up from Tel Aviv to Haifa on the Highway 2, stop at Caesarea. Cool remnants of when the Romans were there. Haifa/Akko: 2 Days max is all you need. Jerusalem
Jerusalem: An entire day isn't enough.
By the time I got there half the day was already gone. We first stopped and got food from a restaurant down a back alley right after the Jaffa Gate. Back at the Omar ibn El-Khattab Square, we had to navigate through a cramped alley way lined with shops to get to any of the Holy sites. We first stopped at the Western Wall (aka Wailing Wall), then to Dome of the Rock where we were stopped by Jordanian Special Forces to verify we were Muslim. Quick side-bar: Half of Jerusalem is under Israeli Special Forces security, and the other have by Jordanian Special Forces. Due to some security threats, only those who claim to be Muslim are allowed to enter the Muslim Quarters. From there we read our evening prayers in the Al-Aqsa Mosque and made our way to the Holy Scriptures Church. It was well into the night by the time we finished visiting all the sites. It was time to get back to reality: work the next day.
Side-bar #2: If you want to pull a mission, you can drive to Petra in Jordan. It's about a 6 hour drive there than 6 hour drive back (if you go in via the south boarder crossing in Eilat. It’s a bit further but quicker. I'd recommend going with a tour group, as they manage the border crossing and passport related paperwork for you.
Tel-Aviv, Israel [2017] PhotosJerusalem [2017] Photos
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